Stuck in Cocklebiddy

Written in pen and paper on 23 February 2015 Twilight Cove Campsite

We adventured to Twilight Cove, today was for fishing and visiting the bird observatory, after the car was attacked by many a tree branch and many were moved by Marco and I singing, “Move, branch, get out the way!” We had also had to stop at one stage because the intuitive driving to stop us blowing the tyres on a rogue floor branch meant Marco slamming on the breaks and doing a handbrake stop. All well and good until you consider the roof rack jerked forward with the momentum over the windscreen by about half a metre. We ended up pulling it back as best we could and securing it through the car with the ropes we had available, each of us occasionally pulling on the one behind the seats to check if it was taut or not. Nobody wants their bags flying off and being left for the dingoes; when does a Dingo wear underpants and Hawaiian shirts? 

 

After the palaver we made it to just before the sand. It was time to hit the 4wd, but the lights weren’t working and we couldn’t hear it engaging, then we realised that the air con had also stopped working, in my opinion more important in this 31-degree heat! Marco, or should I say Tinkerbell, decided to solve the problem by trying to take the dash apart after concluding all fuses were fine. This took a while and my assistance was unnecessary, so I made sandwiches for us both. A while later he gave up and stick it all back together (I had every faith in using all screws.)

 

We had to go back, we couldn’t do the sand without 4wd engaged, we reached Cocklebiddy at dark, Marco carried on trying to find the issue with the car, eventually discovering it was the relay fuse all along!

The following morning we took the roof rack off the car and rearranged the fuses. We tried engaging 4wd just to blow a second fuse, so we had to disconnect the secondary battery and try and find another fuse not in use, as the roadhouse had no 10Ah fuses. We gave ourselves one hour to get everything complete, including the roof rack, so we could get on our way, this was at 9am... at 3pm we finished.

We’d had to saw wood and screw the rack back together and move all the twigs and… you get the idea. It was a long day in the sun so we treated ourselves to lunch (ok, tea) at the roadhouse and a couple of games of pool; I almost won for a change instead of a straight annihilation. It was too late to leave so we stayed at the roadhouse. Hot shower in the morning, huzzah! Then on our way to Twlight Cove, again, with our new and improved roof rack, will it last the distance?

Roof rack test No.1! We made it unscathed to Twilight Cove, parked up on the sand and walked down to greet the sea. You get so spoilt for beaches in WA (as I’ve said before) so I didn’t go in the sea, too choppy and cold but we did see a Sealion! It got scared, must have been Marco’s face, and went in the sea. There was some odd things washed up on the beach, one was a jar of, what appeared to be, coffee that Marco stupidly opened and managed to get all up his legs and over his feet, I could do nothing but laugh and hand that poor boy a wet wipe.

 

March flies, march flies everywhere, biting any bare flesh, at least they’re easy to smack! Marco went to do some fishing with his newly repaired rod; it had been battered by the trees whilst on the roof rack and snapped in two, at least we had wood and tape to stick it back together. The magical tape, we’ve used it to fix the roof rack feet to wood, the car wind protector, the wheel guard, the tears in the tyres and last but not least, Marco’s glasses (and more recently his flip flops). So, off he went to fish, dancing to the sea, spinning and waving his arms like a fairy to discourage march flies.

 

Again he caught no fish, what a poor hunter-gatherer. After giving up with fishing, i.e. running out of bait, we went to the campsite, cooked dinner and played cards; I learnt a new Italian game and almost won. We watched Frozen on my laptop before sleep (which Marco enjoyed, yoohoo!). We’ll make it to the bird observatory… eventually.

Civilisation?

Written in pen and paper, date unknown.

Hadn’t seen a soul since yesterday morning (apart from Marco, obviously) and it was time to do the track up to Caiguna. The optimism was high, the car started, thankfully (as it almost didn’t when we left Norseman) and off we went, 7:30am, let’s make it to Caiguna before dark, easy. The track got pretty scary at times, the Italian style driving didn’t help. Rocks, sand, rocks, sand, rocks, sand. And plenty of dust – dust anybody? No.

We had seen three (tre) graves of the telegraph masters, all called John! We ended up taking the wrong track and got to a beach we never intended to reach, there was an old tv there, broken; this place is in the middle of nowhere, you have to understand it took us ages to get to on a 4wd only track – WHO DOES THAT? Crazies! Once we got back on track we followed the old telegraph line along to the cliff edge. We reached Toolinna Cove after I had a ride on the bed in the back of the car, which was much fun, luckily that was well before the car started to lose control, luckily Marco corrected it, I did get it on video although it’s less dramatic on video.

 

Toolinna Cove was very beautiful, but we were on top of the clidd and couldn’t get down to the beach without a death-defying jump, forget that! Upon leaving the cove we had to find the right track, which proved tricky. We’d barely even seen wildlife, bar some bugs and the occasional bird. Towards dusk we were on kangaroo watch, not that we’d seen any up to now. After a while Marco squawks, “look at that massive kangaroo”, it was almost as funny as him stopping to take a picture of a big lizard that turned out to be a stick! These were camels! Wild camels, about ten maybe, they obviously got spooked by the car as they ran away in front of us, following the track. Can’t ever say I’ve seen a camel run, it was pretty funny, we caught it on video too.

 

We’d still not made it to Caiguna and it was starting to get dark, we’ve not yet adjusted to early rising and sleeping with the sun, yet more track to go then just like magic Caiguna appeared, we stayed the night and you’ll never guess who arrived an hour after us? Three of the cars we were supposed to have travelled with, it was nice meeting them but I didn’t stick around long as I was exhausted. In the morning we went and had breakfast by a not-so-blowy blowhole, apparently there are loads along the Nullarbor. Once our stomachs were happy it was fuel and back on to Twilight Cove and the bird observatory. Have to admit, I enjoyed driving the car, briefly so, it lived up to my life long desire to drive a 4x4 and fuelled the desire, although he refuses to let me drive his baby, off-road, which I’m totally happy with – not my responsibility, therefore any damage is his problem, like the Russian’s would say “not my circus; not my monkeys!”

To Norseman and Back Again

Written in pen and paper on 16^th February 2015 at Isrealite Bay, WA

Again the boys got back pretty quick from their walk and we went to Lucky Bay to have lunch, you’re so spoilt for beaches in WA that I didn’t like Lucky Bay, it had sludge on it. Then I suggested we try the one the couple recommended; Hellfire Bay is the most beautiful beach I have ever been on, the sand was like walking on fresh snow, the sea, albeit chilly, was gorgeous shades of blue and at one end ran a small river which can’t be seen from the entrance to the beach and I loved it there.

That night I spoke to Marco – still no confirmation from his mechanic on when the car will definitely be ready but he said I was welcome to come stay in Norseman, on a bed, with a hot shower. How could I refuse?! So Friday morning the boys kindly dropped me in town and I got the bus to Norseman. Marco came to pick me up and took me to the motel he was working at, sweet little place; I named it the Tardis as it’s huge on the inside and looks small outside.

That day I had a loooooong shower, repainted my nails (how girly), met a Scottish guy call Doug who was a covering paramedic from Perth for a month and Jaci, a lovely lady who Marco had done jobs for.

After a sleep in a proper bed (huzzah!) we went to Norseman markets (all 6 stalls!), I got my blood pressure taken – normal, then went to Jaci’s for a really nice chat, tea and biscuits. Afterwards Marco got me and did some MORE jobs (that guy’s like Norseman’s handyman!). I sat and did a jigsaw puzzle and had a cup of tea, didn’t finish my tea in time to see Jaci before Marco got back so we had an hour then went out for a drink with Doug – Norseman was rocking, 7 people in the pub, couldn’t handle the excitement! It even closed just after 9, late night party town. We went back to the Motel and played pool before bed.

Sunday was go day, after doing yet more jigsaw and having a brew with Jaci we got the good news, it came when eating a delicious lunch Leigh had made (she also did lamb shank, mash, gravy and veg the night before, I could have kissed her, lambs my favourite). The car was ready, he was like an excitable dog, jumping around, hurry, hurry, hurry. I never got to finish the jigsaw, nightmare!

Got the car about 2, set off (back to Esperance) 3 hours later, watch out for ‘roos! Marco spent time in Esperance sorting his CB radio then we found somewhere to sleep for the night. In the morning it was supplies and off to Isrealite Bay. Unfortunately, due to the delay, we missed the rest of the expedition.

We started our 4wd after deflating the tyres, the car vibrated on the terrain most of the day. We ended up seeing a building ruin, in the middle of nowhere. It was the old telegraph station, interesting to see, completely abandoned with a log book which we entered our names in and saw the guys entry who we were supposed to be with. Then we went past the campsite and Marco got some advise from some Australian’s camped there.

We eventually got to the beach and had a swim (although I didn’t follow the rules and get my hair wet). As the day progressed it got colder and I added more layers whilst Marco fished with barnacles we’d been collecting earlier. The fish were biting but not big enough to take the line. It was getting late and the tide was coming In, so we had to get off the rocks and thusly off the beach as the sea came in and enveloped the dunes. We’d made a wrong turn and started running out of time. The sea was almost in and the car was almost bogged. After a swift decision to not go back to the rocks, Marco reversed and rapidly revved the car through the ever-approaching sea. I wish I had filmed it, it was something from a 4 wheel drive (4wd) advertisement.

We had made it and I’m sure if I could have heard it, Marco’s heart would have been going a million beats a second. Off the beach and on to the tracks, it was getting darker, we made slight progress in the direction we wanted, eventually, where we stopped for the night. Pasta for dinner, this time with an Italian touch. Goodnight Isrealise Bay, or should I say “buonanotte”, I am getting Italian lessons afterall.

On The Road Again

Written in pen and paper on Thursday 12th February 2015

The boys got back not long after I finished writing, with Ivo setting the pace I don't think that was hard to achieve. After we drove back through Hopetoun with the boys taking a quick shower near the beach. When arrived back at the campsite we had more company, 3 Frenchies and a German. They seemed really nice, they themselves road tripping to Melbourne. 

We had dinner in the light for a change, then went to watch Hans do some fishing before having fish for supper, Salmon this time, and we sat and listened to him tell stories of his days of service and all the mischief he got up to. 

It was too overcast to look at the stars so instead it was an early night, especially since Richard wanted to get up super early and watch Hans run his two greyhounds. 6am came and I couldn't sleep any longer as Rich and Hans were talking - there's no way of blocking noise from a tent! You'll never guess what was for breakfast - FISH! Herring in the morning, it's a good job I love fish. We sat around chatting a while before watching the greyhounds run, they're pretty fast, which I suppose you need from dogs you race. Then it was time to pack up and head to Esperance. We said bye to the other travelling group and to Hans I said "so long and thanks for all the fish" and also stifled a giggle for an appropriately placed film quote, just lucky I didn't sing a verse. 

On the way back we went to the national park and the boys climbed Mt Barren whilst I went in to town to have yet another cold shower, then I went to collect them and whilst waiting I painted my nails to hide the copious amounts of dirt that's made its way under them - camping lifestyle! After this we went and had lunch in Ravensthorpe following our viewing of its quaint little museum. Then it was onwards to Esperance. We scanned Wikicamps for a free campsite but it let us down so we found our own free site, not too far from a stonehenge replica - WHUT?! Of all the places...

We set up camp and had rice for dinner then played Hanabi - I think we're getting better at it - teamwork makes the dreamwork. The next day we just had a wander around town and went to Twilight beach, pasta for tea. 

I've taken to sleeping in the car for extra comfort; I feel I'm travelling business class to dreamland. Today we hit the national park, $12 in. We visited a beautiful beach in Cape le Grand then came to conquer Frenchman's Peak, I wasn't going to do it at all but Ivo convinced me to go as far as I could go, I got as far as the sign for "the summit" following posts and chickened out, thanks vertigo and inappropriate footwear. 

Now I'm sitting waiting for them to finish an estimated 2 hour climb so we can find a beautiful beach. Some people told me there is a beautiful beach across the way so maybe give that a try, but no doubt they'll want lunch first, hungry hippos.

1 hour to go...

Outback Adventure

Written in pen and paper on Monday 9th February 2015 

Leaving all my friends in Dunsborough was really sad and hard, nevertheless a new adventure awaits. After a few pictures with my favourites (minus 3 who had gone off to do other things), I drove away.

Our first stop was Busselton so Richard could get himself a sleeping bag. Strangely enough it was raining when I left, which I thought was funny! I thought it funny because the day before I had told Luca and Marco (as we were listening to it at the time) to be singing when I left the next day "Ain't No Sunshine When She's Gone."

After Busselton we drove to Mt Barker, it got a little scary at one stage because we could see all the smoke from the bush fire we were attempting to avoid. I have to be honest, I hadn't really thought ahead on this trip, I just count myself lucky that Ivo and Richard are a lot more organised! They've got cooking equipment, food, etc. I brought some sultanas and a bag of doritos mmmm. 

We briefly stopped in one town along the way, which was small. We picked up 10l of water and carried on. We managed to miss the road Rich was aiming for and ended up on a red gravel road which we stopped on, near a burnt down shack, to set up camp for the night. We cooked rice with tuna and played a German card game called Hanabi, which is ironically British-Richard's, luckily we have German-Ivo to read the rules.

It was a pretty uncomfortable sleep, clearly I prefer sleeping on my side, but the ground is too hard and my hips are too much of a pressure point, ouchy! On my back it is then. In the morning it was oats and sultanas for breakfast (they did come in useful) before I drove to Albany so we could get supplies.

We had intended to climb Bluff knoll but it was closed due to the fires so we popped to the cafe instead; I got a cup of tea and the guy who served me was from, would you believe it, Bootle(!), of all places! What a small world. He asked me if I was a red or blue and I obviously answered Red - he gave me my tea in an LFC mug - it made my day; not only was it LFC, it was a mug instead of a miniature cup, you know the type you HAVE to stick your pinky out to drink from. 

Then we went swimming in the green pool near Denmark (not Europe) before heading to Cosy Corner campsite near the beach. On the way we visited a friend of Ivo's who was shooting a potato gun, as you do; I played fetch with the dog. When we set up camp it was pasta for dinner before more Hanabi and sleep - on my back. After an awful night sleep I had my oats and tried Richard's slack line, I was a bit rubbish and couldn't balance without holding the branch. After this we went to a beach and did part of the Bibbulmun track.

We were walking along a trail that had a snake symbol for guidance, which I originally thought was a warning with a happy snake on it! After a while, and the occasional beautiful view, Ivo headed back to get the car whilst Rich and I continued to the next point. We almost got lost! We intercepted a road from the bunk point (where I wrote my name in the log book) and followed it for what seemed like forever. Having already seen the arse end of a long black snake every rustle became a paranoid head twist. We did come within metres of a Kangaroo hopping along. After an age we eventually saw civilisation; 2 Australian's who didn't appear to give the slightest toss but happily told us it was another 500m to the road, the sweet, sweet gravel road. By now I was covered in dirt, sweaty and running out of water. We reached the gravel road and I saw the most beautiful sight - Ivo with the car! Fantastic! We got back and cooked rice and the eggs we got from the farm shop, it turned in to some kind of mush! Too tired for Hanabi so straight to bed.

The next day we packed up and headed to Albany, I got a free shower and didn't care that it was cold, it was brilliant to have a wash. I was planning on getting something comfier to lie on but it was Sunday and only the IGA was open. I bought a hot dog from the girl scouts (it was nice to have some meat) and some socks and baby wipes (it's so easy to get very dirty) from the IGA. Once we left Albany we headed towards Esperance stopping in Ravensthorpe, well, nearby, closer to the beach at a free campsite [I now recall this place to be Hopetoun]. Thank you Wikicamps! There was a guy there, who had two greyhounds, camping in his car, nice enough bloke. We set up the tents then got to cooking; pasta tonight. Then the guy (I need to ask his name) came back with a few fish he had just caught, he gave us some which we fried and I ate like a caveman, my hands stunk of fish for a while after.

At about 9 the three of us went and lay on the beach looking up at the milky-way and on the lookout for shooting stars. I saw 2! That made 3 in two days - which beats yesterday's record of one in one day.

I got up quite early, even after managing to sleep on my side, kinda, because I was slow roasting myself in the tent; I seem to have a habit of misjudging where the sun comes up. It was fish for breakfast - the Australian guy caught and cooked it for us. Then we popped in to town, got some info and headed to Fitzgerald National Park. Stunning views, just stunning. I walked with Richard and Ivo to the beach, about 2km before heading back to the car. I didn't fancy walking along yet MORE sand to go back across the same sand just to get the car, especially with my dodgy knee tendon at the moment. 

I reached the car after a brief stop at the bench with the beautiful view and a bite from a March fly on the ankle (second this trip!). I was sweaty and dirty but the wet wipes worked a treat. Then I drove slowly, taking in the view towards West Beach Headland where I am now sat writing in good old fashioned pen and paper, waiting for the boys, listening to the sea crash on the rocks and looking over the vastness of it.

1 hour to wait... 

Goodbye Dunsborough

Since my last post I've done quite a bit. We went to the rock pools near Smiths beach, there was 3 German's (Ivo, Elizabeth [I may well be spelling that wrong] and Thiago [he's half Brazilian]), an American (Aaron), an Estonian (Olya), 2 French guys (Mat and Jeremy), a Kiwi (Rusty), a Dutch guy (Geoff) and one half of my favourite Italian duo (Luca). It was a lot of fun climbing the rocks and trying to stay under the falls as the waves splashed over, everyone tried it but they were so powerful if you didn't have a grip you would just get pushed further in to the natural pool. When we had all had enough splashing (I was the splash instigator 97% of the time - Rusty the other 3%) we sat on the rocks and Ivo made some peanut butter sandwiches and made sure everyone had something to eat and drink, he is one of the most thoughtful people I've met. After this we went to Olya's work place and I had a scone and an iced chocolate (pretty much a chocolate milkshake), the scone was a little touch of home for me. I'm so surprised that most of the people we went with have never tried a scone. Come on Britain! Spread the scones around the world. 

After scones we wanted more swimming so we went to Smiths beach - alright! My beach! Quite enjoyed it there, apart from the tendon's giving up in the back of my knee, that was pretty horrendous. I managed to scoop some waves though - I did get dumped by one. Upside down back to front SAND! Then I had to come back here to go to work, that was no fun because I got sent home after an hour due to the pain in my leg. Although when I got back I realised someone had stolen my socks off the washing line. I was furious. It was unreal - who does that... all resolved now though and I have the socks back. Woohoo. 

On Sunday a big group of us went to Sunday Session at Cave's house, it was a lot of fun and I got pretty squiffy and kept telling my favourite people I would miss them a lot. The next day my favourite Italian's took me to Bussleton to get a tent, which I got and we had look at Dick's shop which sells electronics - I saw his Dick Pick. I laughed a lot and had to explain it to Luca and Marco, before Marco fell asleep on the way back. 

That night Marco, Luca, Iz and I all went crabbing, at about 11pm and we caught 17 crabs. Marco is the crab catching pro. I didn't get to try any of these but last time Marco cooked crabs they were delicious, although they are pretty tricky food to eat and I suggest maybe not eating them if you are famished. 

The next day was back to Smiths Beach with Olya, Marco and Luca, even though we arrived too late and Luca had to leave for work. We went in Marco and Luca's van which I've nicknamed "The Love Wagon" because it's so jazzy, although it's been named Donald already. Emily (Canadian) was already on the beach and Dario (Italian) turned up a little later. We did some body boarding and once again I went spinning around in the wave, it was pretty fun to be fair. After we got back Marco, Olya and I decided to go out for some food, we decided on the curry van at Old Dunsborough Jetty and sat on the rocks watching the most awesome lightening storm I have ever seen, fork lightening, massive flashes and crackling thunder. Oh my Science! It was truly amazing. Want a fabulous evening that was. When we got back it was thoroughly raining and still unbelievably warm, so I danced in the rain and enjoyed it - I've not seen rain for 6 weeks or more. Although I did go skidding and my foot went right through my flip, leaving me only with a flop. 

Today was sleeping bag shopping! I managed to get a $90 sleeping bag and a $12 roll mat for $50, I felt like a Bargaining pro! Boom! Lil bit chuffed with that. I also bought some new flip flops, although I don't like them so much but being a fussy person who doesn't want plastic ones I can't complain too much. After the bargaining it was food time, went to a lovely little cafe with Olya, Marco and Eric (Dutch). After that we met Pei (Taiwanese) and Andrew (American) at the cinema and watched Wild... I'm not sure what I think about it. 

So, I have decided it's time to move on. I have a lift tomorrow morning with two strangers and a guy from the hostel (Ivo). We will all be travelling together to Esperance along the coast and from there I will be accompanying a friend in a 4wd with some other 4wd's and making my way to Adelaide. 

I've had such a beautiful time here and met some life long friends. It will be emotional to leave and I'm sure I will have a little cry after I drink a bit at the full moon party but I am happy to have the memories to take with me. 

For all you friends reading that I have met here in WA, I love you and want you to stay in touch. Please come and visit me when I'm settled back in Liverpool, the door will always be open to you and what traveller turns down a free bed for the night? You'll always be Captain's to me.

Now I have to pack...